South Thailand
After the most ridiculous border crossing ever, I finally made it back to Thailand. So I swapped my SIM card, changed out my currency, and got myself ready… for a foot massage and a curry!
The Currency
Baht (THB)
£1 = 43 Baht
I was spending around 800 Baht a day in the south. Expect it to be much lower in central and north Thailand.
The Language
Sawadee Ka (or Kap if you’re a man) – Hello (and goodbye)
Kap uhn Ka (see above) – Thank you
Aroy – Delicious
Kep Tang Ka – The Bill please
Chai – Yes
Mai – No
Farang – Foreigner
Nee ra Ka Tao Rai? – Much much is this?
Nham – Water
The Food
Khao Soi is still my favourite Thai food, but it can only be found in the north. Thailand is famous for it’s Phad Thai noodles, flavoursome curries and satay meats. Bangkok in particular has a whole host of street food vendors, selling everything you can imagine (amazing western food included), but down south, particularly on the islands, street food seems to be limited to Phad Thai and ‘dinner on a stick’ (AKA any BBQ’ed meat). It’s not to say that you can’t get great street food on the islands, but if you want something different, you have to go out and find the dedicated night market, which isn’t always open every day.
Don’t miss: The afternoon/evening market outside the MBK centre in Siam, Bangkok for some great street food, and some cool clothing stalls too.
Must Try: Roti’s with condensed milk and sugar. Dessert for under 40 Baht? Yes please. These Thai pancakes are incredible, perfect to grab on the way home from dinner.
The Route
Bangkok
Last time I was in Bangkok, the king had passed away so Khao San Road wasn’t as lively as you would expect due to the rules and curfews put in place by the government to show respect for the king. This time round, I wanted to experience it; I needn’t have bothered. Khao San Road is a street full of bars you can’t talk in, surrounded by irreputable dealers and rip off vendors, selling all manner of crap to Western tourists drowning in buckets of dodgy alcohol. There are so many other places in Bangkok to see and to stay in; stay away from Khao San Road.
Ko Samui
Ko Samui has been given a bad rep, like a lot of the Thai islands, for being super touristy and over-priced. Personally I thought it was a really beautiful island, just stay away from the big shopping centres and the tourist strips. The beaches are incredible, with crystal clear water and white sand beaches, much to my delight.
Where to stay: Samui Backpacker Hostel which is in a great location for the ferry to Ko Pha-Ngan, the staff are lovely and it has a great new pool.
Ko Pha-Ngan
People flock to Ko Pha-Ngan for the infamous Full Moon Party. It’s reputation for being the place to party could be improved by a greater range of music across the numerous bars blaring sound systems on to the beach. I stayed in Haad Rin, which is where the full moon beach is, but it isn’t the nicest place to stay. Ko Pha-Ngan itself is beautiful and I would definitely go back but no-where near the full moon.
Ko Tao
The place to get your dive certificate, I was surprised how much of a party there was here - I didn’t indulge as I was busy getting my PADI open water. If you are not planning to dive, I probably not advise you coming here but I did only see half the island.
Must See: Nangyuan Islands off the coast of Ko Tao – it’s great for diving and snorkelling alike.
Krabi
I stayed in Krabi Town, which didn’t have much going on but had a great night market. We took a day trip to Railey Beach after so many recommendations from other travellers. It was just a beach. You had to walk miles to get up to your waist in water, which wasn’t particularly clean any way due to the number of taxi boats coming in and out of the bay. I can understand why people like this beach – a bay surrounded by impressive rock formations, with traditional Thai long boats dotted across the water but there are better places to go – try Cornwall.
To Do: Do a cooking class at Krabi Thai cookery school and be taught how to ‘bang bang’ and ‘chop chop’
Ko Phi Phi
Do not go to these islands. If you insist on seeing Monkey Beach and The Beach beach, go on a day trip from Krabi or Ko Lanta. If you still insist on going to this worn down, over-priced ‘party’ island, go to Kong Siam bar for live music every night, and try to forget where you are.
Ko Lanta
I ended up staying here for two weeks and had to leave because my visa ran out. It is such a refreshing change from most other islands that I have been to in Thailand and it’s a great place to chill out for however long you need it. When you go, stay at Loro Loco 2. Just a 5-minute walk to the beach, it might be the best hostel in Thailand. It has a great pool and a kitchen (which is a bonus in hostels in Asia) and Sima, the girl who runs it, is incredible at making you feel welcome. Don’t stay here if you have future plans – you’ll book one night and stay for ever.
From here, I’m off to Malaysia. It’s about time for a new country.